There and Back Again - The Shipwrights Way, The South Downs Way, Downs Link

ride flyer by James C

It's raining, it's cold... and I'd say Autumn has finally taken grip.  From now on, it's mudguards, long sleeves, cold starts, and a 'grin and bear it' attitude.  To think a few days ago I was completing this years 'big ride', in glorious sunshine, through some of the most beautiful scenery this part of the country has to offer, whilst chomping on energy bars, sucking away at energy gels, with the occasional 'coffee and cake' stop along the way.  And that was the 'There And Back Again Ride' of October 2016.

This ride was a follow on from doing the South Downs Way last year.  My riding buddy James had done the SDW loads of times, and fancied a 'circular' route that left the Godalming area, headed down the Shipwrights Way, hopped on to the South Downs Way, then back up the Downs Link to Bramley... and on to Godalming... There and Back again!

The Shipwrights Way

The bike in waiting at Frensham

I had ridden the Shipwrights Way and The SDW, but had never done the Downs Link.  I had heard the Downs Link was pretty well one straight path, and though it was long - and not the most scenic ride.  However, I was up for it, and I was interested to experience it myself.

Stunning view after Old Thorns, Liphook

We met up at little Frensham Pond on the Sunday morning.  I had been working for the past three nights, as a working musician does, and therefore surviving on very little sleep (as a working parent of three boys does).  I was therefore dropped by my accommodating wife, allowing me twenty minutes more in bed.  As it was, Patrick drove (and left his car), where as James and Phil rode from home, as was the spirit of the 'expedition'.  Frensham is stunning place to meet, and this morning the sky was blue, and as my kids played at the waters edge (annoying the local fishermen), we, the 'Godalming Four', bid farewell to the 'remain' camp and pushed on.  It was ten o'clock, so we had about 7-8 hours to complete the first days riding.

The A3 at it's best.

The first real section, was the Shipwrights Way, which we joined in Alice Holt forest.  This really is a pleasant and scenic route, though is punctuated with some short road sections.  There isn't much climbing, so isn't too taxing - it's mostly family friendly (though that depends on how fit your family is, when it gets to Queen Elizabeth Country Park).  It was a pretty uneventful journey, though if riding it afresh, i'd definitely recommend a decent GPS, as the signposting is pretty appalling.  You have to become quick to notice the small blue and white  'Shipwrights Way' direction stickers which are fixed to various lampposts along the way.  At one section it looks like you are heading onto the A3... at which you should stay on target, as a cycle lane appears on the footpath.  We had ridden this route a few times, so knew where to turn... though on our first outing, we got hopelessly lost on quite a few sections.  Like I say, GPS for the Shipwrights is advisable.

James ponders where all his battery life is going.. at Cloisters Cafe

Patrick puncture number 1

We stopped in Petersfield, choosing a pleasant coffee shop with a  table outside (Cloisters Cafe).  After 4 flat whites and various pastries / muffins, we rose to leave, upon finding James had a flat tyre.  This was to be the first of many (mainly for Patrick).  It was also to be the first of many smug 'it wouldn't happen with tubeless' comments from myself and Phil  - team 'Specialised' (my Camber Comp 29er, his Carbon Stumpjumper 27.5).  Ten minutes later, we actually set off, knowing that it was a short ride until we hit Buriton... which meant the real climbing would begin.

James, Patrick and Phil at the intersection of Shipwrights
and South Downs Way... after the climb out of Buriton!

The climb out of Buriton is a shock to the system, after the relative low gradient on the Shipwrights so far.  At the top of the climb, it intersects the South Downs Way... which is where the ride could really get going.

The South Downs Way

The South Downs Way, complete, is around 12,000 feet ascent, and about 100 miles, starting in Winchester, and ending in Eastbourne.  It gives the most glorious views south to the coast, and north to the North Downs, and the valley between.  If it's a killer to reach the top of the hill, then there is always a payback, as you drink in the view.  We were joining it at the Queen Elizabeth's Country Park section, or rather just after it, and heading on to stop in Amberley.  I had ridden this section quite a few times before, which actually makes it so much easier, as you mentally know where the hills are going to end.  Hills, road, gravelly road, chalky climbs and descents... this is what made up the journey.  It had rained recently, though mud wasn't a problem.  More of an issue, would be the fact that chalk gets beyond slimy - it's impossible to climb, and lethal to go down.  As it was, the weather was fine, and it was pretty easy going.

South Harting Downs

The first target for me was South Harting Down, which signals a good chunk of riding has been done, and the remainder to Amberley is very achievable.  The approach crosses 2 major roads, with a length of wooded, flinty track on the edge of the hill.  The end of the climb takes you out onto the expanse of grassland, with huge views extending north.  You can often see hand gliders / paragliders swooping around over the valley, along with various birds of prey hovering in the winds that buffet the hilltop.  It's a pay off, and a great place to take in some fuel for the hills to come.

I tucked into an energy gel - the Torque brand... and concluded that the rhubarb and custard flavour would be slightly on the sweet side for me - which was unfortunate, as I had 4 of them to get through.  Aside from the sweetness, the energy gels are superb, and are very noticeable for keeping the energy flowing.  I knew from doing the South Downs Way last year that variety was the key, and having something that tastes nice was equally important.  Some food can just get plain boring - like chewing cardboard.

at Cocking... 11 miles to go

After South Harting, there is a very steep and fast ascent, over potted-holed grass, with a chalk base.  This is a very tough hill to return on, but not too bad to go down, though to be done with care.  At times like these, I love my full suss bike.  The tracks carried on, and the hills got longer, but all manageable.   Not before long, we had arrived at Cocking, which was officially the next water stop.  I had started with 2.5 litres, and now had about  1.5, so decided i didn't need to refill, as although it was sunny, it wasn't too hot (and the pace was more leisurely, hence less overheating).  It's worth noting that although there is a signpost for home-made ice cream at the 'Farm Shop', last time I came by, this was actually closed... so don't rely on and food and sustenance here.  It actually amazes me that there aren't more 'pit-stops' along the South Downs Way.  Aren't there enough walkers and bikers to sustain a steady trade (see Stan's Bike shack later).

The last water stop before Amberley... at the start of a long tarmac climb.

The climb out of Cocking is long, but smooth... it's just a 'head down and pedal' hill.  With 11 miles to go, it's a good 'mile stone'.

Due North of Upwaltham

It was after this, the week before, that I was stung on my head by a wasp... which was incredibly painful.  No such misfortune this time, so after a few more hills, pee-stops, and long chalky roads, we actually felt like we were getting there.   Then Patrick hit puncture number 2.  It's fair to say that we picked a lovely spot to fix it though, where you can look down to the coast and the sea, whilst being surrounded by lush green fields.  Phil and I once again talked about the merits of tubeless, and compared bikes.

After this puncture stop, we were on the home run (I'm pretty sure I missed out two other punctures - one James, and another Patrick).  Another popular stopping place is at the stone seat, at the end of the long, chalky, flinty, nobbly, bone shaker of a track, that leads to the descent into Amberley.  Of course, in all my 'practice rides' i would stop at this point, and not head into the valley... so what you forget, is that there is actually another hill to head up before the real drop down.  It's not a big hill, but, psychologically, it has a toll, as I find that I ration out my mental energy for what is to come... and that little hill caught me out, even if it was for just a few minutes.  As usual, James raced ahead, leaving the remainder to ponder on which left or right we should go on the track.  Luckily a passing family confirmed that a tall bloke on a bike had in fact come that way...

It was 5 o'clock when we rolled along the steepish, loose gravel track into Amberley, but the end was in sight.  A short flat ride across the fields, and over the river bridge, led us to Foxleigh Barns, which is where we would be spending the night.  After about 7 hours in the saddle, we had completed day one.

Foxleigh Barns - The Bunkhouse

Simple living, but everything you need.  Well thought out, basic accommodation - James soaks up the view far right.

In October 2015, I had done the South Down's Way in 2 days, and had stayed at Foxleigh Barns.  It's a perfect location, 50 miles in on the route, and is owned and run by a vey friendly and helpful couple, who are bike / walker friendly in every way.  It is a bed and breakfast in the main house, all catered for, though this year, we were in the 'Bunkhouse', which is a very different experience.  The bunkhouse is basically a converted stable, which sleeps 6 (in bunk beds), with a lockup of the bikes, of sorts, and a bathroom / toilet / washing up block across the field and through the gate.  It is a big step down from the main house, and at £40 per head, it's not the cheapest accommodation, but it serves a purpose.

The view from the Bunkhouse

The bunks are a squeeze (though I may have been in a child's bunk bed), and you cook your own breakfast, and do all the washing up after.  The breakfast is provided, as are towels and bedding... so you really don't need anything else.  The pub is a few minutes walk up the road, where you can get good meal and a refreshing pint.  The views look back to the South Downs, where you have just come from, and as the sun sets over the hills, you can soak in the sense of achievement.  In the summer, I imagine the picnic tables outside can get more use.  As it was, we washed down the bikes (there is a hose provided), showered, changed, and hit the pub.  James had handily driven our overnight bags / bike kit down the day before... which is something you have to take into account when planning something like this.  That said, you could probably do it with just some minimal clothes in your bag, as everything is provided at Foxleigh.

The bikes

DAY 2 - Onto The South Downs Way at Amberley

perfect morning to set out for day 2

Bacon and Egg

We rose on Monday morning, around 8am, ready and prepared for the day ahead.  I was told how much I snored, though I lay the blame heavily on the cider I'd been drinking the night before.  To be fair, James was the only non-snorer amongst us.  James and Patrick set about making breakfast, and after, myself and Phil handled the washing up.  It was a beautiful day and I couldn't wait to attack the first hill (I remembered it form last year as a particularly tough one).  I had the luxury of fresh clothes, but kept to one layer on top, as I knew it was going to heat up in the sun.

We left Amberley and started the climb up the first hill - an initial scramble over loose chalk / flint gravel, followed by a steep grassy ascent.  At the first levelling out, Patrick gave his puncture alarm.  At this point I was suspecting something within the tyre wall, but they couldn't find anything. I decided you head to the top and wait there - head mechanic James stayed down to help Patrick (the two guys who have most experience with punctures... yes, the two bikes WITHOUT tubeless setup).  I may sound smug regarding tubeless, but one week before, on the South Downs, I had come unstuck when something tore a centimetre hole in my tyre... and I had to resort to putting an inner tube inside the tyre.  The fact is, the tracks of the South Downs Way take no prisoners when it comes to tyres - tubed or tubeless.

after the climb out of Amberley, this was the morning view..

At the top of the hill, I took in the view, which again, was breathtaking.  Phil then arrived, and we proceeded to take pictures of our bikes... it's what you do to pass the time.  I knew that it was a relatively short section of the South Downs, but it had some big hills within, so was looking forward to moving on.  Soon Patrick appeared, and then James.  Such a rarity it is that you are in front of James, I had to capture the moment ;-)

The steed

Phil powers out of Amberley.. wind-break style bag up front of the Carbon Stumpjumper.

Patrick, waiting for his tyre to go down...

The Lesser spotted Culver, rarely seen at the back of the field...

We pushed on, over some busy roads, and up some steeper hills.  One particular climb seemed to go on and on.  James disappeared in the distance, so I simply put my head down and peddled.  The chalky flint turned to gravel, and before too long, the road veered to the left, and the gradient lessened, until we hit the top... where a rested James stood.  Fields of sheep were to the right, and again, views of the coast.

Sheep and the sea... after a steep climb

Views north form Chanctonbury Ring

We paused at the Iron Age Hill fort, Chanctonbury Ring.  We all took to the chance to explore, hoping to find some wonders within the coppice of trees.  Naturally, we all took loads of photos, though they could hardly capture the beauty of the views hand in hand with the majesty and history of where we stood.  I was aware that our section of the South Downs was coming to an end, and soon we would be speeding along the route of a disused railway line... which wouldn't have quite the views.

Spooky inside, or on top of the Iron Age Hill Fort at Chanctonbury

Admiring the views, whilst Patrick fixes his puncture

Surrounded by pigs...

Twenty five minutes later, we were waiting for Patrick to fix another puncture - and by now, it was an obvious pattern.  However, it was actually quite nice to have the time to look at the views, and it not be your fault that we were being held up.  It's part and parcel of cycling - you get punctures, and with more people in the group, the odds will increase (unless you are tubeless... though I'll stop mentioning that).  So with the tyre fixed, we pushed on, cycled past lots of pigs, and the tyre went down.  Eventually, on the descent into Steyning, James decided it was best to head past the Downs Link intersection to where there is a water but, in which we could fully assess the holes in the tyres, and find a solution.

The fix to fix all punctures... the one that worked!

At that point, James and Patrick FULLY checked the tyre, and did indeed find a hidden thorn, and it matched the hole point on the inner tubes.  the thorn was removed, a patch was placed on the inside of the tyre, along with a section of gaffer tape (gaffer fixes everything).  It was then a short ride back over the river, to commence the third section of the ride - the Downs Link.

The Downs Link

According to Wikipedia, the Downs Link is "a 36.7-mile footpath and bridleway linking the North Downs Way at St. Martha's Hill in Surrey with the South Downs Way near Steyning in West Sussex and on via the Coastal Link to Shoreham-by-Sea."  So we would be doing most of this, and at twenty past one, we hit the trail.  What struck me immediately, and rather unsurprisingly, was that for the large part, it was long, straight, and flat.  often, the an embankment of trees and bushes grew up either side, so you were fairly shaded.  In certain sections, it breaks through built up areas - and at these points, a GPS would seem to be essential... though luckily Patrick had ridden the route before.

Coffee in the country...

One absolute gem of the ride, was Stan's Bike Shack (found in Partridge Green, about 40 minutes ride from Steyning).  This was a cafe who prided themselves on quality coffee, along with a 100% cycle friendly attitude.  There were energy gels and bars for sale at the counter, along with the standard hot meals and snacks.  They apparently have live music on certain nights as well... what's not to love!  We chilled at this 'oasis' for a short while, tucking into toasted sandwiches alongside some top coffee... and I could happily have stayed there longer.  Please, please, please somebody do something like this within a 10 mile radius of Godalming...

A pretty typical Downs Link photo...

From the cafe, we popped onto the road for a short while, then hit the disused railway trail again.  At times, we crossed roads, and other times, we travelled along roads, but the majority was on a relatively smooth off road compacted gravel surface (barring one rather out of character super steep hill).  Some time around four o'clock we came out next to the Cranleigh centre, and from then, it was a fairly sustained blast along the track to Bramley (mistakenly I hadn't thought it would be so far at that point, so decided to take the helm and pick up the pace... and thankfully Bramley arrived when it did).

Apparently an important bridge!

After Bramley, it was the home straight, Patrick leaving the group at Farncombe (we headed into Godalming via the canal path), then James at Milford, Phil at Witley, and eventually, at five thirty, myself home to Thursley.  So the second and final day was completed in around severn and a half hours!

After the Cranleigh / Bramley Dash

So how did I feel...?  I felt good to have done it, though it wasn't as much of an effort as doing the South Downs Way.  It was great to do a 'circular' route, and in doing so cover so much area.  The bike performed really well, and my training had paid off.  I had a great balance of food, gels, and interesting stuff to keep me going (this time I had dry roasted peanuts and jelly babies to supplement the 'proper' sport bars and gels).  Would I do it again...?  Yes, but possibly try doing it in one day, as it's almost the link between the South Downs in two days, and South Downs in one - the link in distance and total ascent.

To prove we were there...

For me, the South Downs is where it is at.  Incredible views, and great hills to battle against... so maybe that's where I should head next, to the South Downs One Dayer?  Whatever it is, with the nights drawing in, and the weather getting colder, it will have to wait until 2017.  For now, 'There And Back Again' was a pretty good challenge, and all the more of a fun experience to share with some wonderful fellow MTB riders.  I'd say give it a go - and don't forget to allow time for Stan's Bike Shack!

And Back Again...

Maps, Gear, Fuel, and the Tekkie Stuff

This ride took a fair bit of planning, and I think we got it right.  I know it felt good, and the bike performed well... so it's worth noting this down, so when I come back next year, I can do the same thing!

The Bike  (checkout my long term  'review' on the MBR forum - purchased new Oct 2015)

Bike:  Specialised Camber Comp 2016 29er (medium)
Tyres:  29er Specialised Ground Control Purgatory - tubeless
Gears / drivetrain etc:  11 Speed Cassette: Shimano Deore XT CS-M8000, 10-42t...
Retainer ring: Hope 30t
Pedals:  DMR V12's on loan from the very wonderful Cycleworks in Haselmere... whilst the DMR Vaults have their bearings changed.
Mudguards:  Mudhugger on Rear... Mucky Nutz on front fork, standard downtime mudguard on down tube.
Dropper Post:  Specialised Command IRC dropper.

The Kit

Endura shorts, with click fast liner (the more expensive ones with better padding) x 2

Sealskin socks x 2

5-10 shoes... 1 pair

Gore winter gloves
Riding glasses / shades (useful with all the bugs etc flying in your face)
Specialised tactic helmet

Merino icebreaker long sleeve x 2

Icebreaker short sleeve x 1, Nike running t-shirt x 2 (just for the cold starts, and waiting for punctures to be repaired)

Camelback 3 litre capacity backpack (the Mule?).  Used about 2 litres per day.

Chamois butt'r - chaffing cream before the rides.
Lights - battery pack + light for front, small clip on for back
Quad lock bike kit in case GPS is needed
In the back pack - spare 29er inner tube, standard tools, tyre levers, gaffer tape wrapped round tyre lever. Cash, waterproof, pump, compass, spare chain link, panadol...
iPhone + charger and lead  (had a bigger charger at the bunkhouse to charge phone AND smaller charger)
Camera (not so good, as iPhone is way better)
Small case mounted on frame for camera and quick food.

Separately at the bunkhouse, I had packed a chain cleaner + degreaser, dry chain lube, cleaning brush + walking boot drying sacks things?? (they contain some kind of material that would dry clothes) + change of clothes etc.

NOTE:  next year, take some anti-histmaine pills.  I was stung the week before by a wasp (it was caught under my helmet)... its a worthwhile precaution.

Food / fuel (split over two days)

Big bag of dry roasted peanuts

Big bag of jelly babies

Torq energy gel x 8 (used 4) - note: rhubarb and custard flavour is TOO sweet

Cliff bars x 6 (used 2)

OTE Duo Energy Bars - chocolate and vanilla flavours x 5 (used 2)

Torq Recovery drink single sachet, vanilla (at end of ride) x 2

1 muffin + flat white on day 1

1 panini + flat white on day 2

Breakfast day 1 - banana, oats, blueberries smoothie

Meal at end of day 1 - 2 pints cider (and as pint of water) with spare ribs'n'chips, followed by syrup song pudding with custard... well worth it!

Breakfast day 2 - alpen + cornflakes + bacon and egg

The Prep

My last ride before this, was a hack round Swinley on the Wednesday, 4 days before.  The previous week, I had been working on a small, medium, big ride principal... heading down to QEP for my long rides (43 mile, 5,000+ feet ascent the previous Friday), or doing bigger local rides.  I had probably pushed the distances up a month before, though more important was to get adjusted to the ascent... which is much easier to fit in actually on the South Downs (though a few circuits of the QEP trails will do it).  Swinley is actually quite a good training ground, as although it doesn't have ascent, it certainly works you with all the technical parts... and it beautifully laid out.

On my off days I'd started doing Ti Chi... which just helped to keep supple - though I could always do more of it, and work in some proper stretching.

The Maps, Stats etc.

Day 1 

distance:  48 miles

moving time:  5hrs 39mins (elapsed time 8:17:06)

elevation:  3,695ft

Day 2

distance:   54 miles

moving time:  5hrs 31 mins (elapsed time 7:44:10)

elevation:  2,505 ft

TOTAL DISTANCE:  102 miles

TOTAL TIME:  11 hours 10 minutes

TOTAL ASCENT:  6,200 ft

TOTAL TIME (INCLUDING STOPS):  approx 16 hours

Map of entire route

Foxleigh Barns, Amberley - see trip advisor
Stand Bikes Shack - https://stansbikeshack.coffee

The Conditions
As mentioned, it was pretty well dry the whole time, and hadn't been to wet on the run up.  The temperatures were around 14 degrees C, but i can't be certain, as I didn't make a note.  It was mainly sunny, though there was occasional wind, which helped me form getting too hot.

GPX files
I've edited together a complete .gpx - click here to download!

Separate files....
These don't give a complete circuit, as I was dropped by car to the start, but it's pretty close...
Day 1 - .gpx file
Day 2 - .gpx file
If you would like to link Thursley to Frensham here is a suggested .GPX route.

For individual routes, recorded 2015...
The Shipwrights Way - .gpx file (with all the mistakes we made included)
South Downs Way (Day 1) - .gpx
South Downs Way (Day 2) - .gpx

note:  the files were recorded with Strava... and the phone only lasted because of the backup battery power I had with a USB charger.
note also... if you want to examine and check your .gpx files after exporting from Strava, http://www.gpxeditor.co.uk is a great online editor...